Farewell to Tanzania

A little over two weeks ago I had the bittersweet experience of saying goodbye to my Tanzanian home for the past year at Mzumbe.  It wasn’t easy to bid farewell to all of my incredible students and fellow colleagues, but after a wonderful last week where I was able to share my appreciation with my school and my community, I left Mzumbe knowing that this experience along with the people that I was fortunate to call my neighbors and friends would stay with me long after I returned home.

My last week in Morogoro was filled with many goodbyes and farewells, and also many recollections of fond memories from the past year.  I made a few final trips into town and enjoyed a lot of “last times” of the many routines and habits that were a part of my daily life in Tanzania.  I took a final run in the fields, hand-washed my clothes one last time (thankfully!), and made one more trip to the market for some fresh fruits and vegetables.  While engaging in these last experiences, I reminisced on the many memories of the past year and could truly reflect upon and appreciate how far I’ve come since the day I arrived in Tanzania.

One last Mzumbe morning parade

In my last few days as a member of the Mzumbe staff and community, I taught my final classes, left some parting words of wisdom for my students and shared many memories and laughs with my fellow teachers.  On my last day, I took some final pictures with my classes, exchanged contact information, and said my goodbyes to my community.  In typical Mzumbe fashion, I was also given a great send-off reception by my fellow staff, during which we enjoyed some snacks and sodas together and shared our mutual appreciation of each other for the last year.  Many teachers gave some humbling and heartfelt parting words and I also gave a final speech (with part of it in Kiswahili!) that could not begin to express the gratitude that I had for what I was fortunate to experience as a member of the Mzumbe community over the past year.  It was a great way to say goodbye to all of the truly amazing people I got to know over the year that had such an unforgettable impact on my life.

A Fond Farewell Party

Serving as the guest of honor

Following one last night at Mzumbe filled with packing, and also one last meal with my neighbor and his family, I was picked up and transported with my other fellow volunteers to the beach town of Bagamoyo near Dar es Salaam for our End of Service Conference.  The conference was a chance to relax, unwind, debrief and also prepare for the final journey home.  It was also a time to share memories and laughs with my other WorldTeachers, who over the past year became incredibly close friends.  Even though it was difficult to say goodbye to my Mzumbe community, it was probably even more difficult to say goodbye to my compatriots who accompanied me on this adventure.  We went through many great times and difficult times together, but as a group we were successful in our endeavor as the first WorldTeach volunteers in Tanzania and as a result formed an incredibly close bond that will continue long after our service has ended.  While I leave Tanzania with endless memories and life lessons, it’s the memories with the people and friends I gained that will live on most vividly. 

WorldTeach Tanzania 2010-2011 together for the final time

After a great last hurrah at our End of Service Conference, we traveled back to Dar es Salaam and were sent off to the airport where we would make the long-awaited trip back home.  I could not have asked for a better final week in Tanzania.  It was certainly an emotional time, but I left Tanzania with no regrets and with the satisfaction knowing that I got more out of my experience than I could have hoped for.  There really is no word in Kiswahili for “goodbye” and that’s how I felt upon my departure.  Even though I am leaving behind my amazing community and friends, I don’t feel as if I am saying a true goodbye.  The memories of my experiences as a WorldTeach Volunteer will stay with me forever, which is all I need to feel as if I never truly said farewell.

A Lesson In Courage

“Courage is not the absence of fear, but rather the acknowledgement that something is more important than fear.” - Ambrose Redmoon

“Courage is resistance to fear, mastery of fear- not absence of fear.” - Mark Twain

Looking back and reflecting over my experience as a WorldTeach volunteer in Tanzania, one of the most important pieces of wisdom and lessons that I learned and can give to future volunteers is that the experience of living and teaching as a volunteer abroad is truly what you make it to be.  As I prepare to return home, I leave with a feeling of genuine pride and fulfillment about what I have accomplished during this experience, and it was more than I ever could have hoped it to be.  As both a traveler and a teacher fully immersed in a foreign culture, I reached many personal and professional goals, overcame a lot of tough obstacles and experienced plenty of highs and lows along my journey.  Thinking about all the innumerable challenges and rewarding moments I’ve experienced over the past year, I have discovered that the key to success as a WorldTeach volunteer means facing every new challenge and opportunity that you encounter with a courageous mind, heart and soul, even (and sometimes especially) if it makes you afraid.  Living and teaching in a culture so unique and so different from your own brings with it daily experiences that are all new, exciting, demanding, emotional and sometimes scary.  With each of these experiences comes the acknowledgement of fear and the choice to have the courage to overcome that fear so that you can truly make a difference in and out of the classroom and make the most of every moment that an adventure like this can bring.

From the moment I arrived into the beautiful, unique and dynamic culture of Tanzania, I knew that this year would forever change who I was and how I would see the world around me.  Every new experience was a step into the unknown, exposing me to new challenges that would test my character and form my worldview.  Whether it was the first time using public transportation, bargaining for food at the market, moving into my new home, getting to know my new colleagues, or entering the classroom for the first time, every new encounter was always accompanied by at least some amount of trepidation and fear.  Yet by having the courage to face each fear I was able to open myself up to so many truly amazing and unforgettable moments that made my year in Tanzania so rewarding.  From courageously facing each fear, I met many teachers, neighbors and students that I now call my close friends; I came to fully understand and appreciate an amazing culture so diverse and unique from my own; and I helped to make a positive and lasting impact in the lives of my students, at my schools and in my community.

As a WorldTeach volunteer knowing that there was always something more important than whatever fears I faced, I also learned what it genuinely means to devote yourself to serving a community in need and the rewards that come with that devotion and service.  Teaching in Tanzania was easily one of the most challenging experiences of my life, but I leave knowing that gave everything I had to rise to that challenge for my students and my community with the hope that I have inspired them as much as they have inspired me.  As I face the difficult task of leaving my schools, my students, my friends and my home in Tanzania, my hope is that I have given them the courage to face their own fears and live up to the potential for great things that I saw in each of the students that I had the honor to teach.  My year as an English teacher in Tanzania required much dedication, hard work, and sacrifice, but knowing that I have made a positive impact in my community is enough reward for that commitment to last a lifetime.  

Ending my year of service as a WorldTeach volunteer in Tanzania has been immensely difficult, especially as I reflect back upon all that I have personally and professionally achieved, say goodbye to the friends I’ve gained, appreciate the challenge and joy of teaching, and think about how I have changed as a person from when I arrived.  Adapting to life in another culture and devoting myself to make a difference in a community in a developing country was filled with many moments of fear that I knew I had to find a way to overcome.  Facing those fears and having the courage to persevere through them helped to make my time in Tanzania the most unforgettable and rewarding experience of my life.  I leave Tanzania with a sense of excitement, sadness and pride, but also with a newfound sense of courage that I know will help me to conquer any fear and challenge that lies ahead of me when I return home.

Reflection on a Year- Part Three: Teaching in Tanzania

Don't forget to also check out Part One and Part Two of my Three-part Reflection!

In what was undoubtedly the most rewarding aspect of my time as a WorldTeach volunteer, serving as a teacher in Tanzanian secondary schools provided me with some of the most challenging, memorable and fulfilling experiences of my life.  As someone who had never taught in a formal classroom setting before joining WorldTeach, I arrived in Tanzania a year ago with little more than a strong enthusiasm to teach.  What I would discover over the following year as a first year teacher was a deep passion, love and respect for teaching both in and out of the classroom.  My experiences of teaching English to secondary students at a wide range of levels and in a diverse variety of environments taught me as many valuable lessons as I was fortunate enough to teach.  As I look back on how far I’ve come and how much I’ve learned about being a better teacher in a short year, I can truly appreciate every moment and opportunity I had in the classroom to be a teacher, role-model and friend for every person I had the honor to call my student.

Over the past year, I taught over 400 students throughout three different schools in Morogoro. Teaching at each school (Mzumbe Secondary School, Mongola Secondary School and The Hill Education Center) provided me with an incredibly diverse teaching experience, as I was able to teach at all levels of English ability (beginner, intermediate, advanced).  While it was initially difficult to get adjusted to the Tanzanian system of education, eventually with a lot of trial and error and also the great support from my wonderful colleagues I was able to hit my stride and really feel like I was making a strong positive impact with my students and in the school community.  At each school I was faced with immense challenges as a new teacher (class sizes up to 70 students, no books or resources, etc), but I was fortunate enough to have many eager students always ready to work hard in learning and improving their English skills which made my job a lot easier.  This also made for a lot of rewarding and memorable moments.  Moments like hearing my students give passionate and enthusiastic speeches on ways to help stop the spread of HIV/AIDS, or listening to a student give a thought-provoking and insightful analysis of a poem about slavery, or successfully teaching a classroom of 70 students how to identify different types of conditional sentences.  Also, as there are for every teacher, there were many frustrating moments in the classroom, like teaching a failed lesson, students not understanding me due to language barriers, or seeing some of my students fail their exams after putting in as much effort as possible.  From each wonderful and not so wonderful moment in the classroom I was able to learn from my successes and mistakes and use them to help make me a stronger teacher as the year went on.  With each passing week as I proudly watched my students grow in their education, I also felt myself grow and improve as a teacher and person, as well.

My Mzumbe Form 3 A2 Class

Mzumbe Form 3 A1 Class

Mzumbe Form 3 A3 Class

My Mzumbe Form V HGL Class

 The other highlight of serving as a teacher at my schools was getting to know so many other wonderful and dedicated teachers that I was proud to call my colleagues.  Not only was I able to exchange culture and provide a presence of diversity in the staff room, but I also made a lot of really great friends who served as cultural and professional mentors.  Not only were they my co-workers, but they were also my teachers in many respects, too.  Whether it was at the morning parades, during daily tea breaks or throughout the weeks grading exams, there were always a multitude of opportunities to get to know my fellow teachers and also learn how to become a better teacher from their guidance and advice.  From sharing our unique perspectives as teachers and former students from different educational backgrounds, I truly felt that my colleagues and I were able to fully support one another in making our schools the best learning environment for our students now and in the future.

Mzumbe Secondary School Faculty and Staff

Coming into this year, I began this journey with an open mind and I didn’t really know what to expect from serving as a teacher in a developing country with an educational system that I was totally unfamiliar with.  In a country such as Tanzania, where they take education very seriously and yet are faced with immense challenges, I found the experience of being a secondary school teacher an incredibly dynamic introduction into the profession of teaching.  From my teaching experience, I learned that being a teacher can be one of the most difficult, demanding and also fun, creative and rewarding jobs you can have.  To be a good teacher, you need patience, flexibility and the willingness to want to improve each and every day, and that is no different for any teacher anywhere in the world.  On a good day, there isn’t a better job in the world.  On a bad day, you never want to enter a classroom again.  During my year as an English teacher in Tanzania, I experienced many of those good and bad days, and I’m grateful for every one.  I got to know and teach so many amazing and hard working students, and also befriend and learn from many dedicated and talented teachers and colleagues at my schools.  As I leave Tanzania I can only hope that over the last year I have made as much of a difference in the lives of my students and colleagues as I dedicated myself to make throughout this extraordinary year.

Take a look at one of my classes in action!

Reflection on a Year- Part Two: Living in Tanzania

Don't forget to check out Part One of my Three-part Reflection!

My domestic life in Tanzania provided some of the greatest frustrations and challenges, but also some of the biggest personal successes and achievements.  When I came to Tanzania I was already very independent and adept at living in a new place and adjusting to a new environment, but life in Tanzania brought more unexpected trials and tribulations than I ever could have anticipated.  There were many weeks when I thought it couldn’t get tougher, and just when I thought I had the solution to whatever problem was facing me another challenge seemed to come my way.  Although adjusting to the ups and downs of life in a developing country had it’s difficulties, there were also many aspects to life here that I genuinely enjoyed and appreciated that made my experience here that much more fulfilling.  Living in a country like Tanzania, and especially at a place as beautiful as Mzumbe, has been an exceptionally formative experience where I have learned to enjoy many simple pleasures and could have the peace and freedom to truly value this experience.  While there were countless challenges to life in Tanzania, I can proudly say that I overcame each one and in the process learned more about myself than I had ever expected at the start of the year.

A large part of why I had a fortunate year living at Mzumbe was because I was lucky enough to have a nice, quiet and sufficiently equipped house.  Although it was a bit big for just one volunteer, it suited all of my needs for the year just fine.  Compared to what most families have for housing in Tanzania, I would say I quite comfortable living at my house for the year.  However, for everything that was great about the house, there was often a drawback, as well.  It was quiet, despite the constant rooster calls all day starting at 4AM.  There was running water, except for the few weeks it was shut off. And the fact that it was only cold water and it sometimes turned brown and dirty during the rainy season wasn’t too pleasant.  I had regular electricity, excluding for the 6-month period when it was turned off every other day.  It was easy to keep clean, yet I often had to fend off the occasional bug infestation.  Every setback that came was always unexpected, but the main lesson I learned was to always be prepared and know that there is often a solution to every (domestic) obstacle.  Once I knew to anticipate every problem that might come my way, it really wasn’t so hard to deal with (or at the least, ignore and put up with) the roosters, lack of electricity, dirty water, or bugs.

Along with mastering my Tanzanian life came the acquirement of new domestic skills and also the appreciation of how easy they can be in the U.S.  I learned how to hand wash my clothes, which was an extremely tedious chore and taught me to never complain about doing laundry with a washer and drier ever again.  I learned how to cut the grass by hand which, like hand washing clothes, I hope to never have to worry about doing without the help of a machine ever again.  I also learned quite a few new cooking skills, which I actually am truly appreciative of, and really enjoyed learning and perfecting.  I can now make a killer bean burger, a pretty good homemade pizza, and every combination of beans, rice and vegetables you can think of.  The drawback to cooking was that shopping for food was never easy, and using local transportation to make the trek to the market in town and haggling for decent prices was nowhere near as easy as taking a short drive to the nearby supermarket.

Despite many challenges, I felt more than fortunate to have spent my year in Tanzania living at Mzumbe.  I truly had more than I could have hoped for.  I had an incredibly inspiring and beautiful atmosphere.  I had a peaceful and quiet environment where I could just relax, listen to music, read and focus on my teaching preparation.  I had a lot of facilities nearby, like (albeit slow) Internet and market vendors for any basic needs.  I had amazing trails all around me that allowed me to keep up my running and kept me motivated to stay healthy and in shape.  I couldn’t have asked for a better living situation that kept me focused on doing the best job I could as a teacher, volunteer and member of a local Tanzanian community.  My life at Mzumbe was altogether challenging, difficult, but also extremely rewarding, and it has provided me with the skills and appreciation to fully value and respect the conveniences of life in the U.S. more than I ever did before.  Although I learned countless lessons from my year in Tanzania, I probably learned more lessons about myself from my day-to-day life than from any other aspect of my experience this year. From those lessons, I leave Tanzania more confident than ever that I can face just about any challenge that comes my way.

Reflection on a Year- Part One: Culture and Language in Tanzania

It’s hard to believe that this experience, which has required so much mental, physical and emotional time, dedication and effort over the past year and half, is finally coming to an end.  I don’t think it’s completely set in that I’ll be ending this journey so soon and will be leaving this extraordinary culture, my temporarily adopted home and an unbelievably rewarding year as a teacher in Tanzania to return home to the U.S.  For some of my last posts to end this incredible Tanzanian adventure, I wanted to provide a reflection of what life here has meant to me and what this experience has taught me over the last year.  Since there’s a lot to reflect upon, I’m going to present it in three posts, detailing my final reflections on my cultural experience, my living experience and my teaching experience.  Of course, a lot of what this year has meant to me is hard to fully put into words, but the experiences I’ve had, the lessons I’ve both learned and taught, and all of the people and culture I’ve encountered have no less than changed me as a person and given me memories that I will never forget for the rest of my life.

Culturally speaking, when I arrived in Tanzania, I came with an open mind and was pleasantly surprised at what I encountered over the following year.  I certainly didn’t expect to find a culture as diverse, beautiful, welcoming and wonderful as the one that exists here.  Tanzanians in general are incredibly warm and friendly people that genuinely want to proudly share and express their culture with visitors and locals alike. While there were many times when it was difficult to try and adapt and fit in to the culture as someone of a different race and nationality, with an open mind, patience and a positive attitude, I came to be accepted as equal member of my local community shortly after my arrival to Tanzania.  With each passing week, from shared meals, home visits, relaxing with a cold beer or soda, or just chatting in the staff room with Tanzanian friends and colleagues, I learned more and more about the culture and also shared a lot about American culture, too.  This not only gave me a distinct appreciation of the local culture, but also made me greatly appreciate and reflect on my own culture back home.  In the process, I also made lifelong friends and learned some great life lessons.

Over the past year, I was fortunate enough to attend many cultural events that really illuminated how welcoming, communal, and unique Tanzanian culture really is.  I attended weddings, graduations, a first communion, a funeral, and many more parties, celebrations and gatherings that gave me plenty of unforgettable memories and experiences.  At each event I was welcomed just as any family member would be, and attending these events added an extraordinary dimension to this experience that few people get to encounter.  From attending many of these events, I realized that a big part of Tanzanian culture is treating each person and member of the community with equality, dignity and respect, no matter what their background might be.

Regarding the laid-back lifestyle and culture that exists in Tanzania, I’m not sure if I really came to appreciate it as much as I thought I would at the outset of the year.  There were times when it was great and I totally adopted the “Pole-Pole” attitude, but there were also many times when it led to confusion or frustration and this was one cultural aspect that never fully took hold.  As an American (and also from the Runner personality in me), I’m used to a bit more structure and organization than I experienced with the Tanzanian culture.  There were times when it was nice that I didn’t have to stress out about arriving everywhere on time and could always have an excuse to relax, but there were just as many frustrations- like when nothing would start on time, a meeting would run two hours long, classes might be interrupted for impromptu events or meetings, neighbors and students appeared at your home unannounced without warning, and the fact that no one ever observes the concept of “waiting your turn in line.”  Looking back, however, I’ve realized how much I’ve accepted this aspect of culture as part of life here.  While I was probably a lot more frustrated about it when I arrived, it’s taught me to be a lot more patient and also to appreciate the times when I can have an excuse to just take it easy, enjoy the simple things and not take life too seriously.

As for language, well, I have to admit that I am leaving Tanzania as a less than efficient speaker of Kiswahili than I hoped.  I probably know more of it than I realize (my listening skills are pretty good), but I am certainly far from fluent.  Partially that is to blame on the fact that all of my colleagues were extremely efficient English speakers, so I was pretty spoiled because they were always willing to converse with me in English.  It was the moments when I would encounter a local neighbor or nearby villager that didn’t know a word of English that really tested my Kiswahili skills.  While I can’t have a full conversation in the local language, I am proud to say that I can greet you in Kiswahili in every way there is (and there are more than you can count, trust me).  I was told early in the year that knowing greetings is 75% of appearing proficient in Kiswahili, and that is no exaggeration.  If you greet someone in Kiswahili, they’ll assume you’re fluent in the language.  Luckily, once I mastered that and a few other basics, it was incredibly easy to get by with the locals.

Although there is so much to admire about the welcoming culture in Tanzania, there is also something to be said about the challenging aspect of living in a foreign culture where you are so distinctly a member of another race.  The fact that you are so different and so noticeable to a point where you are called by a specific racial term (Mzungu) really makes you reflect about the role that race plays in all societies, and your own specific reactions and emotions towards it.  I would be lying if I said there weren’t times when it was difficult to even just step out my door.  Yet despite the racial terms, the stares, the shouts and the attention (both positive and negative) that accompanied me everywhere I went, I have learned a lot about human nature and understood how to appreciate people more deeply beyond initial appearances.  I think if any aspect of this experience taught me invaluable lessons about my own nature and value of humanity, it was this one.

Overall, I feel incredibly fortunate to have had such a dynamic and immersive cultural experience as a WorldTeach volunteer in Tanzania.  From the local gatherings and celebrations, to the customs of language, to the integration as a member of the Mzumbe community, I could not have asked for a more complete first hand encounter with Tanzanian culture as the one I had here.  As I prepare to return home, I leave with a great fondness and admiration for the truly beautiful traditions, customs and way of life here.  Not only will I never forget the lessons learned from my cultural experiences, but they will also serve to add to the great pride and love I have for my own culture back at home, as well.

Recipe: Pizza

I’ve already posted a couple of other recipes for some of my favorite foods from back home that I’ve Africanized, and the last recipe I wanted to post was the last kind of food that I cooked here that always brought me comfort when I needed a taste from back home- Pizza!  This is a pretty simple recipe that can be made with easily found ingredients and also allows for a lot of creativity- that is if you’re adventurous enough to experiment with any local vegetables and foods to use as toppings.

Ingredients:

1 tbsp. yeast

1 1/3 cups of warm water

1 tsp. salt

2 to 3 tbsp. sugar (optional)

2 tbsp. oil

4 cups of flour

Any desired sauce and toppings

1. Sprinkle yeast over warm water and let stand for 5-10 minutes.

2. Add salt, oil, flour (and optional sugar) and knead on a floured board for 10 minutes.

3. Shape dough into a ball, grease the ball lightly with oil and put in a bowl and cover with a damp cloth.  Let the dough sit and rise for at least 1 ½ hrs.

4. Preheat the oven to 400F

5. Press dough into a buttered pizza pan and perforate dough with a fork.

6. Bake 10-15 minutes, then cover the dough with any sauce, cheese and toppings.

7. Bake an additional 10 minutes or until cheese is melted and crust is ready.

I usually just cut up some vegetables and add some cheese and sauce bought at the market, but feel free to experiment a bit.  Enjoy!

Adventures in Transit

When I first arrived I wrote a little bit about public transportation, but since it has been such an essential part of my life and experience here, I wanted to elaborate more on how I get around from place to place in Morogoro.  In Tanzania, where very few people have cars, using public transportation is a major part of life here.  Whenever I’ve told people that where I’m from there are more cars then people, it’s funny to see their jaws drop in disbelief.  Using local transportation in Tanzania can be quite an experience itself; one that can be fun, frustrating, peaceful, funny, easy, difficult, physically demanding, scary, and culturally rewarding all at the same time.  Some of the best and worst moments of life here have come from dealing with transportation, but it’s all just another amazing and adventurous dimension of life in Tanzania.

A Daladala- The typical mode of local transport

The main modes of transport that I use to get from Mzumbe to Morogoro Town are the local mini-buses, called “Daladalas.” These are basically mini-vans that are refitted to be used as passenger transport.  It’s an inexpensive form of transportation (a trip to town costs 900 Shillings, which is about 60 cents), and it’s an easy way to travel a long way for a little money.  Inside the van there are usually enough benches and seats to hold about 14-15 people comfortably, and there’s also some room in the back for any baggage or goods that need to be transported.  Some daladalas are nicer than others, depending on how much the owners want to put into the van.  You can find yourself on one that’s clean and comfortable or on one that might just have a bunch of 2x4 wood slats as seats and has you eating gas fumes for the entire trip (not to mention the mechanical problems).  Each daladala has a driver, and a “conductor” (called a Konda, in Kiswahili) who collects bus fees and gathers passengers along the ride.  The Konda will ride with his head out the window and when he sees a passenger that wants to be picked up, or someone wants to get off (just yell out “shoosha!” when it’s your stop), he’ll signal the driver to stop by pounding on the side of the bus.  Not the most sophisticated system, but it works. 

Riding the daladala gets interesting when the bus starts to fill up.  Since the kondas want to have as many passengers and bus fares as possible, they will often fill the van up with as many as 30 people… in a van meant to fit 15, max.  You may wonder how this is possible, but with some physical ingenuity that would make a clown car jealous and what would be a severe violation of public safety codes in the U.S., it gets done.  When the benches and seats are crammed to capacity, passengers will stand.  Clearly, there is no understanding of the term “personal space” on a daladala.  This is one aspect that I have found to be the most baffling, infuriating, uncomfortable and also hilarious parts of riding a daladala.  If I have a comfortable seat, it can be pretty amazing to see how many people are willing to contort their bodies and put up with a sore back and stiff neck just to get into town (and in some circumstances, have put up with myself).  It’s kinda like watching (and in some cases, playing!) a game of Twister on a 15 person capacity mini-van filled with 30 people (and a live chicken or two, for good measure) going 45 mph.  Just don’t try that at home, kids!

The dala-dala stand in Morogoro Town

Catching the bus from Mzumbe to town is pretty easy, since Mzumbe is the end of the line for one of the major routes of the Morogoro daladalas.  I walk down to the main gate and just wait for one to come by (which is usually every 10-15 minutes).  Luckily, since it is the end of the line, they are usually pretty empty going into town, so it’s easy to get a seat.  The trip to and from town is incredibly scenic, and if I can be comfortable, it’s a really enjoyable and peaceful trip.  Riding the daladala can also be very culturally rewarding, not only because it’s a great time to observe Tanzanians in their daily routines, but also because it’s not uncommon to find yourself deep in conversation with the passenger next to you.  I’ve gotten some of the best Kiswahili and cultural lessons just from riding the bus!  It’s a really cool moment when you can exchange your culture and get to know Tanzanians on a more personal level just from a 30-minute bus ride into town.  When I come back from town I get on an empty daladala headed for Mzumbe at the daladala station in the middle of Morogoro town.  The stand is basically a parking lot full of daladalas headed to parts all over Morogoro.  Since the buses won’t take off until they’re full, you can often find yourself waiting anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour until the bus takes off.  Just remember to bring a newspaper for the wait!  From there I enjoy another scenic ride back to Mzumbe.

I probably have too many stories about riding on daladalas to count, but it certainly has provided me with some of my most vivid and interesting memories.  It often takes an incredible amount of patience to deal with the transportation here (always “Pole-Pole” in Tanzania), but if you have an open-mind you can really discover a lot about Tanzanian life and understand the culture on a true first-hand level.  It is one of those cultural aspects you have to experience yourself to get a full understanding of what it’s really like, but if you do it’s a Tanzanian experience you won’t forget.  Just remember to stretch first!

Rainy Season

Right now in Tanzania, we are in the midst of the rainy season of the year.  Since we’re on the Equator, there are really only two seasons that occur: Dry Season (June to February) and Rainy Season (March to May).  While there have been short periods throughout my year here when it has rained occasionally, dealing with the true rainy season has been an interesting albeit frustrating experience. Coming from Sunny California, particularly Los Angeles where when it infrequently rains people behave (especially on the roads) like it’s the next big natural disaster, I’m not so used to the constant rainfall in a place where when it rains it brings more serious difficulties than just a few slick roads.  I wouldn’t call it the most enjoyable aspect of life at the end of my time in Tanzania as it has posed a few extra challenges to my days, but at times it can be a fascinating display of nature’s power that I haven’t really experienced back in the U.S.  If anything, it has made me appreciate, and look forward to, all of those sunny days that are easy to take for granted in Southern California. 

 I can see why it’s called the “rainy season,” since it tends to rain just about every day.  However, it doesn’t rain hard every day.  Some days there is just a brief shower and other days it will rain so hard that it can even wake you up from the deepest sleep.  Unfortunately, the rainy season has brought with it a few more difficulties to life here than I’ve previously had to deal with.  Most notably, there hasn’t been much relief from the heat but there has been an increase in humidity.  Combined with the already present high temperatures, this has made it slightly more unpleasant in the classroom and in my house, and also more difficult to dry clothes after washing them.  And speaking of washing clothes, there has been an increase in laundry duty due to the amount of mud everywhere.  Probably the worst aspect of the rainy season so far is that it floods all of the roads, which are all mostly dirt, so it turns them into roads of slick, slimy mud with enormous puddles to navigate around. It’s not uncommon to find parts of the road completely flooded and un-walkable.  This tends to be a problem when I have to take my 25-minute walk to Mongola Secondary after a hard rain.  It’s pretty common to see a lot of people with their pant legs rolled up as they try to get from one place to another.  Somehow, even after doing this my pants still seem to get muddy!  As for running, the rainy season has had its adverse effect on that, too.  Unfortunately many of my routes have become flooded or overgrown with heavy brush and tall grass, so I’ve had to get pretty creative in finding new, drier places to run.

With all of the setbacks that the rainy season has brought, it’s not all bad.  The rain has certainly improved the scenery.  Now all of the fields and mountains are incredibly lush and green, and it makes for some really beautiful sights.  It’s also amazing to see how fast the crops can grow, since this is the season when most people are planting and growing their harvest for the rest of the year.  Also, on some days when I have nothing to do, the rain can be a good excuse to be lazy and just catch up on reading and some other things.  At times when the rain is at it’s hardest, I know it’s going to make a mess of things outside, but when it is raining it’s cool to just stare in awe at how much rain can really fall at one time.  I keep telling people here that if it were a lot colder, we’d probably have about 3 feet of snow in one day!

Even though the rainy season has its ups and downs, I’m glad that it’s come at the tail end of my time here.  It’s both a fascinating, and at the same time miserable display of nature’s power.  It just goes to show you that the weather is always one thing in the world that you’ll never be able to control but can sometimes have a big control over you.  As I sit and stare out at the torrential downpour coming down outside my house this afternoon, at least I will always have a reason to appreciate the sunny days of Southern California, and might even be able to tolerate the crazy drivers on the rain soaked streets of L.A. just a little (tiny bit) more when I return.

Family Visit

The Family Visitors from L to R: John, Maureen, Me. Mom, Luis

Right after my Kilimanjaro climb, I was fortunate enough to have my family visit from the U.S.!  After 8 months of being away from your close friends and family, it’s great to have the ones you love come to visit and also have an opportunity to show them the great culture of Tanzania, my home and schools and give them a view of what my life is like living and teaching here.

After decompressing for a couple of days following my trip up Kilimanjaro, I traveled to Zanzibar where I met up with my mom, her fiancée Luis, my aunt Maureen, and her friend John O’Connell.  They had just finished a Safari through the Serengheti and we were going to spend a few days together in Zanzibar, so they would see the all of the best that Tanzania had to offer!  We stayed at a really nice hotel in the heart of Stone Town called The Chavda House Hotel, which had a great Zanzibar atmosphere in addition to a convenient location.  Being in Zanzibar with my family this time was great, since I was already familiar with the island after traveling there a couple of times previously.  This trip, however, even I still got to be a tourist for a few days and experience some of the sights that I hadn’t seen in my previous trips. 

Relaxing in Zanzibar

Besides exploring all of the great culture of Stone Town, we also took a day trip to experience a Spice Tour excursion, which was a lot of fun.  Zanzibar is known for its extensive cultivation of various spices, so taking a tour of one of the spice farms is a common tourist activity.  The tour included a guide walking us through a spice farm, and along the way stopping at many plants and trees where spices, fruits and vegetables common to Zanzibar grow.  It was quite the sensory experience as we got to taste and smell all of the exotic spices and fruits that are grown throughout Zanzibar. 

On the Spice Tour

Our Spice Tour Guide

Following the spice tour we traveled to Jozani Forest, which is known for its population of Colobus monkeys.  That was a fun experience because as we walked through the forest, you could get pretty close to some of the monkeys and there were times when we were completely surrounded a multitude of Colobuses. 

Other than being a tour guide/tourist in Zanzibar for a few days, it was a lot of fun to relax with my family and catch up with everything happening at home.  We even got to celebrate my mom’s birthday, which was great to be a part of while being away from home.

Birthday Celebration in Zanzibar!

When our trip in Zanzibar was finished, we all traveled to Morogoro, where I could show my family my schools, home and my temporary hometown.  It was a chance for them to see what my daily life was like, and an opportunity for them to experience the “real Tanzania.”  When we arrived at Dar es Salaam after taking the ferry from Zanzibar, my family was already a bit overwhelmed by the chaos of the city and the people of Dar.  It can be a bit chaotic for foreigners, so luckily I was there to help navigate my family though the craziness.  We were picked up at the ferry by a driver and took the beautiful drive to Morogoro, which was lush and green since we’re in the midst of the rainy season.  Once we were in Morogoro, I was able to show my family the main town and some of my frequented “hotspots.”  

The next day we drove up to Mzumbe, where my family got to see both of my schools and my house.  I have spoken to them at length about my house and what my schools are like, but it’s one of those things where you have to actually see it to get a true sense of what it’s like here.  It was fun to see their reactions to what my surroundings are like, and give them an idea of how different things are here.  They even got to meet some of my neighbors, colleagues and one of my school’s headmaster! 

Touring Mongola Secondary School

The following day my family got packed up and were driven to Dar es Salaam for the long trip back to the States.

Having my family come to visit was great because no matter how close you may get to people here, it’s not the same as having family nearby.  It was sad to see my family go but since I only have a handful of weeks left, it felt like a good boost of motivation because I have getting back to my friends and family to look forward to.  I was proud to share with them all of the culture I’ve been fortunate to experience and become accustomed to and also to show them how far I’ve come as a teacher and resident of Tanzania.  As I said, it’s easy to talk about what this experience is like, but you can never truly understand it unless you get to see it for yourself.  I’m glad that part of the memories that I will have when I leave Tanzania will include sharing it firsthand with the people and the family that I am closest to.

Conquering Kilimanjaro

“It’s said that only when runners are exhausted enough to reach that place do they find out what they can truly accomplish.”- John C. Maxwell

In what was certainly one of the most challenging and rewarding experiences I have had while in Tanzania, two weeks ago three of my fellow volunteers (Abby, Alice, Becky) and myself took the 5-day hike up to the Roof of Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro, which stands 5895 Meters (a little over 3.6 miles) above sea level.  It was no easy feat, but most definitely well worth all that we went through to reach the highest peak on the continent.  Climbing Kilimanjaro was one of my main goals I wanted to accomplish when I came to Tanzania, so the trip was especially fulfilling for me.  There are a lot of great experiences, sights and memories from the trip to share, so here is a day-by-day recap of the climb:

Pre-climb Day 1: Friday February 25th

The other volunteers and I traveled up to the northern Tanzanian town of Moshi from Morogoro by bus.  Moshi is at the base of Kilimanjaro, so many visitors go there as a starting point for climbing Kili.  It was about a 9-hour ride, but actually a really pleasant and scenic trip.  When we arrived in Moshi, I was struck by how beautiful the town was.  It was quite different from Morogoro, and I especially noticed how clean it was.  Apparently, Moshi is the first town in Tanzania to have a public waste system.  We spent the night in a local hostel where we were able to relax after the long trip, and even meet a few other young travelers and volunteers.

Pre-climb Day 2: Saturday February 26th

After leaving our hostel, we spent the afternoon in Moshi town, and then traveled to the nearby Mountain Inn, which was our base hotel for our trip.  The company we used for our climb was called Shah Tours, and from the beginning they were absolutely fantastic.  The Mountain Inn is the hotel Shah Tours boards the climbers before and after the hike, so we were able to have a comfortable evening before the long trek.  That evening there was an orientation by Ms. Luizer, a Shah Tours rep, during which she explained to us our itinerary for the trip and any other useful details.  We were told one main guide, two assistant guides, eight porters to carry our bags and camp gear, and one cook would accompany us.  Certainly a large crew to help 4 people up the mountain!

There are a few routes you can take up the mountain (some are much more difficult than others), and our itinerary was a 5-day climb up the Marangu Route, also known as the “Coca-Cola” route, because it is the most popular and common route that people climb.  It’s also the only route that has hut villages along the way, instead of camping in tents each night.  Our orientation also included renting some of our gear for the climb, since none of us really brought much hiking and cold-weather gear when we came to Tanzania.  After orientation we relaxed and got ourselves packed and mentally prepared for the trip ahead.

Ready to go!  I think that jacket I rented was from the first Kilimanjaro expedition!

My backs are packed, ready for the climb!

Kili Climb Day 1: Sunday February 27th

The brave climbers.  All smiles before the tough road ahead.

At 8AM, a Shah Tours van picked us up and drove us an hour to the Marangu Gate at Kilimanjaro National Park, which is the starting point for the Marangu trail.

After renting some final (but essential) gear for the climb, we met our main guide Robert and one of our assistant guides, Alan.  After some initial pictures at the gate and registering with the park, we were off!

The forest along the first leg of the climb

Our first day of hiking was our lightest and easiest.  It was only about a 4-hour climb to the next checkpoint, the Mandara Hut village.  The hike on the first day was through a lush forest, with a lot of greenery around.  We got accommodated to the pace (you have to walk up the mountain VERY slow- “pole pole” as we were often told) so that we could easily adjust to the altitude.

Taking it "pole-pole"

In the early afternoon we arrived at the Mandara Hut, which was a small village of wooden huts used for sleeping and dining.  The huts are very basic, with only 4 beds, and that’s it.  Not much of a difference from tent camping.  Our bags and gear was waiting for us as we arrived, which made it easy to settle in for the afternoon and evening.

The Mandara Hut Village

Our Hut for the first night.  Below me are the bowls of warm water prepared for washing up.

Inside the hut.

 The sun was out when we arrived and already I could get a sense of how high we were above Moshi.  When we arrived at the hut village we were prepared some hot water in a small bowl to wash our hands and face (that’s the closest we got to showering throughout the whole trip), and had some tea in the dining hut.

Enjoying some tea and snacks in the dining hut.

After a tea break and snack prepared for us by our cook, we took a brief hike to acclimate ourselves to the altitude.  Along the hike we saw some great views and also a few monkeys. 

Already we were at a high altitude after the first day.

Following our hike we relaxed for a bit and had a delicious hot meal for dinner.  The food for most of the trip was actually really good.  It was always a hot meal, usually with soup, a main course and some fruit.  None of us ever went hungry on the climb, that’s for sure.  In the dining huts we also noticed that there climbers of all nationalities and ages, from young climbers from Germany, to a wealthy Russian that we were told was bored and wanted to do something challenging, to a group of Japanese climbers that didn’t have one person in the group younger than 65!  It was pretty impressive to see all the climbers from around the world who were attempting the difficult feat.

We turned in quite early that night (about 8PM) and that night in the huts was a bit of a surprise for us, as we didn’t expect how cold it would be.  Since all of us have been living in high heat for the past nine months, we were definitely not acclimated to the cold weather.  It was pretty beautiful at night though, since I saw more stars in the sky in one night than I probably have in my life.  Also, on a more humorous note, we all had been taking medication to prevent against altitude sickness which apparently makes your kidneys work overtime, so all night there was a constant chorus of sleeping bags zipping and unzipping as everyone had to go to the bathroom every few hours.

Kili Climb Day 2: Monday February 28th

At 6:45AM we were awoken by one of our porters, Jackson, and given some nice hot tea right in our hut.  Another bucket of warm water for washing up was also prepared, and after waking and washing, we enjoyed a nice breakfast.  Shortly after, we headed off on the next leg of the route, which we were told would take about 5-7 hours.  This leg started to test us, as it was a much steeper, longer and tougher climb than the previous day.  However, it was the first day when we could get a good view of Kilimanjaro ahead of us, so seeing that was really a magnificent and motivating sight.

The Mountain getting closer...

We climbed above the tree line and into the moorland, which was basically a lot of tall grass and some other short greenery. 

The Moorland on Day 2

 We also passed many descenders who wished us luck, and also got to see how our porters carry our bags up the hill, which involved climbing the same route we do, only at a faster pace and with extremely heavy bags over their heads.  I really couldn’t understand how they were able to do that!

A glimpse of what the porters had to experience up the mountain.

 Unfortunately, on this day I got a bit sick, which didn’t help the difficult climb that day, and I’m not sure if it was the altitude that caused it, or something I ate.  Luckily, it passed by that evening and didn’t hinder the rest of my hike.

Horombo Hut Village

It took us about 6 hours to make the over 6 mile trip that day, and after a very exhausting day, we arrived at the next hut village, the Horombo Huts.  We had the same routine as the day before (tea, rest, dinner), but we also noticed that it was significantly colder than the last hut, so we appropriately prepared ourselves for the night ahead and turned in early.

Getting higher...

Kili Climb Day 3: Tuesday March 1st

Almost to the mountain...

 I awoke from a surprisingly restful night ready for another long, tough day ahead.  After our typical morning routine (tea, washing, breakfast) we set off on the next leg towards the Kibo Hut at the base of the mountain.

After a couple of hours with more moorland as scenery, we ascended a large hill, and when we reached the top we got an incredible full view of Mount Kilimanjaro awaiting us. 

The Mountain ahead and the Arctic Desert below...

Enjoying a nice, hot lunch with a great view.

We descended in to a valley, which is called an “Arctic Desert,” and I can see why they call it that.  There is no plant life, only just dirt and rocks and some REALLY cold temperatures.  We even enjoyed our hot lunch sitting on some rocks in the middle of the desert!  Getting to this point in the climb, you could start to feel your breathing get much lighter as the altitude took a strong effect on your lungs.  Most of the walk this day was relatively flat, but no less challenging.  Also seeing the mountain summit that awaited us widened our eyes a bit.

The Kibo Hut

We arrived at the Kibo Hut right at the base of mountain, and it was so cold we didn’t really want to do much more than stay warm.  This night we were not in individual huts, but the hut was like one large dorm, with more than just the 4 of us staying in one room.  After our dinner, we were briefed on the summit climb to come.  We were told that we would be awoken at 11:30PM and our guide made sure we were well equipped for the cold and the steep climb.  All of us tried to get what sleep we could, going to bed around 6PM.  None of us knew how challenging the night/morning ahead would be.

Kili Climb Day 4: Wednesday March 2nd

As promised, our guides woke us up at 11:30PM on Tuesday night, and after a quick cup of tea and putting on all of our gear for the climb, at around 12AM we started the long, steep ascent to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa. 

Getting geared up.  FYI, The West Virginia gloves are also rented...

LET'S DO THIS!!!

The Gang ready to go!

We were also told to keep our cameras close to our bodies so that the battery wouldn’t freeze or die at the top.  Since it was pitch black, we had to wear headlamps for the climb, which only lit the ground beneath our feet.  However, it was good that it was dark and we couldn’t see much, because I think no one would have attempted the climb had we known how steep and long the hike up the mountain was.  As we climbed, if you looked up, you could see other climbers’ headlamps and they looked like they were straight above you since it was so steep.

For the ascent we had two guides leading us, and one guide following close behind.  We took only brief breaks, since it was too cold to stop for too long.  We walked extremely slowly up the mountain, and since it was so steep, we had to walk on a sort of zigzag path.  Along the way, we started to see snow and ice, and that was a good indication that at least we were walking to the right place!

Like the climbs on the days before, the altitude definitely had its affect.  Since we were walking so slow, my legs were not getting tired as much, but the air is so thin that it has a significant effect on your breathing.  Most of our breaks were taken just so we could catch our breath.  It was a treacherous route, too, as the terrain was loose gravel, and one false step or look in the wrong direction could be disastrous.  As we climbed higher, we grew more exhausted, and the mental toll started to take effect.  Along the way, one of the other volunteers started to feel a bit sick, so one of the guides fell behind with her, and the rest of our group continued on.  Just when we thought we couldn’t climb anymore, we reached the first peak, Gilman’s Point at around 5AM.  Reaching that point alone felt like a huge accomplishment, but our guides kept moving us along since our mission wasn’t finished!  We still had Uhuru Peak to reach.

It was still dark as we continued our final ascent, but this part of the climb was a bit easier than the first part of the ascent.  Since we were still walking along loose gravel, and now slick ice, it was still quite treacherous.  Even though it was still dark, we could see that we were walking along the mountain crater, and down below was a valley of snow and ice that was really incredible to see.  On the other side of the mountain, we could see all of the lights from Moshi town below, which was also cool to see.

Getting lighter...

As we got closer to Uhuru peak, the sky was beginning to get lighter as the sun was about to rise.  About an hour after leaving Gilman’s Point, we could see Uhuru Peak up ahead.  After a strenuous and difficult six-hour climb, we finally made it to the Roof of Africa!  There were already a few other climbers up at the top, and honestly it was a bit chaotic when we got there. 


We rushed up to the sign that signified our accomplishment, and after a few group shots, our guides told us we should start our descent soon since it would be crowded at the peak any moment.  I had just enough time to get some good pictures and also take in the incredible accomplishment I had just achieved.  Also, the sun was starting to rise which added to the magnificence of the moment.  The view was indescribable and it really felt like you were looking out on the entire continent of Africa.  It was undoubtedly an emotional moment.

The Roof of Africa!  And some Russian dude, too!

I don't know the other people in this picture...

One of our assistant guides who helped us to the top.

A view of the African Continent

Starting our descent down just as the sun comes up

Once we were satisfied with our time at Uhuru Peak, we started our descent down the mountain.  We walked back the way we came, and since it was starting to get lighter, we could see how difficult our climb really was.  I was also able to get a better view of the nearby ice glaciers and snow-covered craters, which were great to see in daylight. 

Ice Glaciers

Snow Valleys

We took a short break at Gilman’s Point, and started the second leg of our descent, during which we saw how truly high and steep we climbed from our hut.  All I can say is that if you are afraid of heights, then descending Kilimanjaro will be quite a tough task for you!  Although the descent was a lot quicker, we could feel the toll that the ascent had on our legs, and we were all pretty sore going down the mountain.

The view from the top before our final descent.  See if you can spot the Kibo Hut below...

A look back.  You can get an idea of how steep our ascent was.

Exhausted but happy.

 At around 9AM we finally made it down to the Kibo Hut, and we were told we would have to get the rest of our things packed and ready because our day wasn’t over!  We still had to hike back to the Horombo Hut, which would be the place we would stay for the night.

On the walk down, post-Conquering

After a brief hour of rest and some refueling, we started our walk back to the Horombo Hut, after already climbing and descending for 8 hours.  Of course we were really exhausted, but we knew the walk would be downhill, and we were just anxious to get to our hut to rest and have a nice, well-earned meal.  The walk to the Horombo hut was about 3-4 hours, and we all pretty much crashed after walking for almost 11-12 hours.  We enjoyed a lot of good hot food when we returned and then turned in for a much needed good night’s sleep.



Kili Climb Day 5: Thursday March 3rd

All these people just to take up 4 climbers

We got an early start this morning, our final day, since we would have two legs to descend.  The rest of the group was still feeling quite sore, but since I’ve done a lot of endurance training and events, I felt pretty good and ready to go.  After our breakfast and before we set off for the day, our lead guide Robert asked us to gather with our crew so we could all exchange our thanks and appreciation for a great trip.  It was also the time when we had to give our tips for our guides and crew, as we were told tipping your crew is extremely important.  We gave each of our guides and crewmembers their tips, which they genuinely appreciated, and took some pictures with the crew. 

Following that, the entire crew gathered together, and as a group sang us a very upbeat song that thanked us for the trip.  We were also extremely grateful to them, and showed them our appreciation as best we would before we started our hike for the day.

A celebration song and dance.

 That morning we started our climb back to the gate to finish our climb, and it was no longer “pole pole.”  We moved at a good pace, and after about two hours we reached the end of the first leg of the day, the Mandara Hut, where we stayed our first night.  We enjoyed a nice hot lunch there and then commenced our final leg.  We kept moving right along, and after another two and a half hours, we finally reached the Marangu Gate, and the end of our journey.  We took some final pictures, and even received certificates for our accomplishment! 

With our guide Robert, and our certificates honoring our accomplishment

 We said farewell to our truly wonderful guide Robert and our assistant guides and were taken back to the Mountain Inn for a night of comfort and rest and reflection on the amazing journey we just concluded.

_ _ _ _ _

Even though many people have reached the top of Kilimanjaro, I feel lucky to be among of the small percentage of people to have reached the peak of the mountain.  It’s an experience that’s emotional, difficult, challenging and also very rewarding, and in a lot of ways tough to put into words (even though I used many here!).  Some people say that the experience can be life changing, and I wouldn’t totally disagree.  The adventure of climbing Mount Kilimanjaro really taught me a lot about myself and the limits I can push myself beyond.  In a year filled with so many incredible highlights, conquering Kilimanjaro is without a doubt one, if not the, top experience I will be fortunate to remember for the rest of my life.